Kelli Hopkins

Thanks and keep up the good work.

Paula Yeatman

Pentasodium pentetate – An inorganic salt used as a water softener, emulsifier and dispersing ingredient in cosmetic cleansing creams, lotions and soaps.  Can be an eye irritant.

Tetrasodium EDTA – Synthetic preservative – can be irritating to the eyes/mucous membranes.

Sodium cocoyl isethionate – synthetic detergent.  Technically, an anionic surfactant, meaning it reduces surface tension, making water ‘wetter’.

Sodium isethionate – synthetic detergent. Technically, a moisture absorber, surfactant and anti-static agent.

Trisodium etidronate – A preservative.  Possible irritant.

BHT – (butylhydroxytoluene) Synthetic antioxidant to keep oils in formula from going rancid.  When ingested, implicated in tumor formation and liver enlargement in rodent tests.  Sometimes used as a food preservative.

While these compounds will clean your skin, they also remove the natural oils, irritate and dry the skin.

Our soaps are created from scratch using the “cold/hot” process method, and contains only the 3 basic ingredients needed to make soap; natural oils and butters, liquid (water, milk, vegetable juice) and lye, and none of the synthetic items listed above.

Skin needs to be clean. Clean does not mean that we need to strip it.

There are many foaming agents used in soaps to product lather, exactly which agent is in the soap you use depends on your brand of soap.  If you are using a commercially produced soap, i.e. Ivory, Camay, Dove, Lever, etc, you can best bet they add a harsh synthetic ingredient.

Hand made soaps are less lathery than chemical soaps but they produce enough lather to clean up. These are really mild to your skin and leave your skin soft unlike the chemical soaps which dry up your skin.  However, the amount of lather is not indicative of better cleaning, think about the lather produce by liquid dish soap as compared to the soap used in the dishwasher or washing machine.  If you put liquid dish soap in the dishwasher, it will over suds and flow onto the floor. Yet they both clean effectively with proper use.

Since the first commercial for soap years ago, the industry has been telling us that lather is a good thing, and the more it lathers, the better it cleans. This is Not True at all.  The industry uses “Foaming agents” to make their products lather, and many of those chemicals strips the skin of natural oils, and have absolutely no effect on how well the product actually cleans.

Our soaps lather as good as or better than most commercial soaps by using combination of excellent vegan/vegetarian oils and butters to create a wonderful yet mild lather that will leave your skin uniquely clean and hydrated.

Essential oils come from plants and are generally considered “natural”. There are several methods for extracting the essential oils, but even so the range of possible scents is limited. Perfumers, and soap makers who have experience blending essential oils, can produce some amazing scents with just essential oils. Some essential oils are extremely expensive making it unrealistic to use them in true soaps. Real rose essential oil, for example, takes 5,000 pounds rose petals to produce just 16 oz, which may cost over $3,000.

Fragrance Oils (f.o.)

Fragrance oils are synthesized from aromatic chemical compounds which are then blended to produce the scents we know and recognize. Some fragrance oils blends may include essential oils or “nature identical compounds” (compounds which are produced in a laboratory but have the same molecular structure as those found in nature). All fragrance oils are not equal, depending on the manufactuers standards, they could contain undesired compounds such as alcohol, however NFY never uses those types of f.o.

Most food-like fragrances (i.e. butter, coffee, chocolate) or fruity scents (i.e. apple, blackberry, cucumber, mango) are synthesized fragrance oils, as are the real florals (i.e. honeysuckle, lilac, rose).

Apricot Kernel Oil - this is the choice oil for most professional massage therapists. Absorbs easily into the skin – a light, moisturizing oil that is good for even the most sensitive or dry skin.

Avocado Oil - Rich in vitamins A, D, & E as well as amino acids and protein. Wonderfully moisturizing and excellent for anyone with extremely sensitive skin.  High in unsaponifiables.

Canola Oil - this oil has gotten a bad rap lately due to an Urban Legend.  Canola is also known as lear oil and comes from rapeseed, a member of the mustard family.  It has actually been cultivated for over 4000 years and has become popular in the last decade or so for being low in saturated fats.  Its oleic acid content is almost that of olive oil.  Canola contributes protein and moisturizing qualities in soap.

Castor Oil - acts as a humectant by attracting and retaining moisture to the skin. Also contributes lots of bubbles to soap – a “bubble booster”. Used alone, it would create a soft, transparent soap. .

Cocoa Butter - made from the same bean as chocolate and cocoa. Cocoa butter is a by-product of making chocolate. When used in soap, it puts down a protective layer that holds moisture to the skin, acting as a softener..

76 degree Coconut Oil - If you are going to make soap, you gotta have coconut oil!  Coconut is the only oil that will lather in *any* type of water – even seawater. Solid at room temperature.

Corn Oil - can be used as a cost effective addition to soap recipe while providing moisturizing properties.  Combine with other “hard” oils or soap will be too soft.

Cottonseed oil - most commonly combined with soy shortening (i.e. Crisco) because the composition is similar.  Provides a quick and abundant lather, but a softer soap.  Can be slow to saponify and prone to rancidity.

Grapeseed Oil - light oil commonly used in massage oil preparations.  Rich in vitamins and minerals.  Can be used in soaps, lotions, creams, etc.

Hempseed Oil - made from the crushed seeds of the Cannabis sativa, aka the marijuana plant.  High in protein, but very prone to rancidity.  The cost is prohibative compared to other oils.  Moisturizing emollient that helps heal dry skin and burns.

Jojoba oil - it’s actually a liquid wax rather than an oil.  Commonly used in shampoo bars for its conditioning properties, but can be used in other soaps and creams as well.  Jojoba has some anti-inflammatory.

Meadowfoam Oil - highly resistant to rancidity and lends those properties to other oils, extending their shelf life.  An excellent moisturizer and can be used in soaps, creams, lotions, and cosmetics.   Prevents moisture loss in the skin.

Neem Oil - used to treat a variety of skin problems including psoriasis, eczema, dandruff, etc.  Has antibacterial, anti-fungal, and antiseptic properties.  Used in pet soap shampoo bars to repel fleas and ticks.  Can be used as a natural bug repellant in “people” soaps and lotions.  Adds hardness and skin conditioning in soaps and is easy to saponify.

Olive Oil - an excellent oil to use in soap as it is a moisturizer that forms a “breathable” layer on the skin, preventing loss of internal moisture. Produces small, silky bubbles and contributes hardness to the bar. Olive oil was used for centuries to make traditional 100% “castile” soap.

Palm Oil - made from the pulp of the fruit from the palm tree. When used in a combination with other oils, it makes a very hard bar of soap. It is very mild and cleans well, but does not offer much in the way of skin conditioning.  Its lather is small and stingy if not used with other soaping oils.  Palm helps pull other stubborn oils into saponification faster

Palm Kernel Oil - made from the kernels of the palm tree. Like coconut, palm kernel lathers well in almost any type of water. It lends to a very white, wonderfully lathering, hard bar of soap.

Shea Butter - also known as the African karite butter. It is expressed from the pits of the fruit of the African butter tree which grows in Central Africa. Fabulous for superfatting soaps to add moisture and nourish the skin.

Soybean Oil or Shortening - used as an alternative to animal fats in soap. Adds mildness, lots of fluffy lather, and is moisturizing when used in combination with other oils.

Sunflower Oil -rich in vitamin E, provides skin conditioning for dry skin

If you are interested in cosmetic ingredients you may want to consider picking up a copy of A Consumer’s Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients by Ruth Winter, M.S. (I will refer to this book as DCI from now on). This book is a great resource and has helped me in my journey as a soapmaker.

Sodium Lauroyl Isethionate

• Uses: According to DCI it is used as a detergent, wetting agent, and emulsifier
• About This Ingredient: This is a synthetic detergent. It may dry the skin out because if it’s degreasing properties. Depending on where you look, this detergent is may be listed as a mild skin irritant.
• How It’s Made: This detergent is chemically synthesized in a lab.
• The Bottom Line: This ingredient does not appear to have any beneficial properties for your skin (aside from cleaning it), and may dry it out.

• Stearic Acid
• Uses: Used as a hardener in soap. According to DCI, it also gives liquid soap a pearly appearance.
• About This Ingredient: According to DCI and Cosmetics Info it is deemed safe by the FDA and CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) expert panel. DCI states that it is a possible sensitizer for allergic people. Stearic acid is a consituent in some vegetable oils.
• How It’s Made: According to wikipedia, Stearic acid is prepared by treating animal fat with water at a high pressure and temperature, leading to the hydrolysis of triglycerides.
• The Bottom Line: This ingredient does not appear to have any beneficial properties for your skin, and may sensitize you to allergens.

• Sodium Tallowate
• Uses: Used for cleansing.
• About This Ingredient: Sodium tallowate is a salt of Tallow (according to Cosmetic Cop’s Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients it is a substance extracted from the fatty deposits of animals, especially from suet (the fat of cattle and sheep). Tallow is often used to make soap and candles. In soap, because of its fat content, it can be a problem for breakouts). According to The Soapmakers Companion (Susan Miller Cavitch) “Quite a bit of controversy surrounds the use of tallow in soapmaking. It is thought to clog pores, cause blackheads, and increase the incidence of eczema for individuals with sensitive skin. “
• How It’s Made: Sodium tallowate is made my mixing Tallow with Lye (a solution containing water and an alkali).
• The Bottom Line: This inexpensive and readily available ingredient cleanses and moisturizes your skin, but may worsen or cause acne.

• Sodium Palmitate
• Uses: Used for cleansing and creating lather.
• About This Ingredient: Sodium Palmitate is a salt of Palmitic Acid (according to Cosmetic Cop’s Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients. Palmitic Acid can be drying to the skin).
• How It’s Made: Sodium Palmitate is made my mixing Palmitic Acid with Lye (a solution containing water and an alkali).
• The Bottom Line: This ingredient cleanses your skin, but may dry it out.

• Lauric Acid
• Uses: According to Cosmetic Info it is a surfactant and cleansing agent.
• About This Ingredient: Lauric Acid occurs naturally in some vegetable oils like palm oil. It can be irritating to super-sensitive individuals at high concentrations.
• How It’s Made: Occurs naturally.
• The Bottom Line: This ingredient cleanses your skin. It may irritiate very sensitive skin.

• Sodium Isethionate
• Uses: Saponification agent (this is what turns the oils into soap). Synonyms include Sodium Hydroxide.
• About This Ingredient: Sodium Isethionate is very dangerous in its unreacted form. It reacts with fatty acids to form soap, at which point there is no Sodium Isethionate left in the mixture.
• How It’s Made: Occurs naturally in wood ash. It is synthesized in a variety of ways. Some of them can be found on wikipedia.
• The Bottom Line: This ingredient is very hazardous, however, it should all be used up in the chemical reaction to form soap. All soap requires an oxidizer such as Sodium Isethionate.

• Water
• Uses: Typically used in soap as a solvent for dissolving the oxidizer.
• About This Ingredient: A solvent is always needed to dissolve the oxidizer. It can be water, milk, or any other liquid containing water.
• How It’s Made: Occurs naturally.
• The Bottom Line: Water is used as a means of dissolving the oxidizer (the thing that combines with the oils to make soap).

• Sodium Stearate
• Uses: The Stearate salts are generally used for their lubricating properties. They also help to keep emulsions from separating into their oil and liquid components, according to Cosmetic Info.
• About This Ingredient: According to DCI, this ingredient is about 98% Stearic Acid, and carries the same risks.
• How It’s Made: Made by reacting sodium with stearic acid to create the salt, sodium stearate, according to wikipedia.
• The Bottom Line: This ingredient does not appear to have any beneficial properties for your skin.

• Cocamidopropyl Betaine
• Uses: Used as a surfactant, according to Cosmetic Info.
• About This Ingredient: This is generally regarded as one of the more gentle surfactants, although some studies indicate it may be an allergen, according to wikipedia.
• How It’s Made: I wasn’t able to pin this down difinitively, but I gather that it is synthesized in a lab.
• The Bottom Line: This ingredient cleanses your skin. It may also be an allergen.

• Sodium Cocoate
• Uses: Used as a surfactant.
• About This Ingredient: This is a gentle surfactant.
• How It’s Made: Sodium cocoate is produced by hydrolysis of the ester linkages in coconut oil with sodium hydroxide (same as Sodium Isethionate), a strong base, according to wikipedia.
• The Bottom Line: This ingredient cleanses your skin.

• Sodium Palm Kernelate
• Uses: Used as a surfactant.
• About This Ingredient: This is a gentle surfactant.
• How It’s Made: Sodium Palm Kernelate is formed by combining Palm Kernel oil with an oxidizer (such as Sodium Hydroxide).
• The Bottom Line: This ingredient cleanses your skin.

• Sodium Chloride
• Uses: Used as a thickening agent.
• About This Ingredient: Sodium Chloride is the same as ordinary table salt.
• How It’s Made: Occurs naturally. Can be mined or taken from seawater by evaporating it.
• The Bottom Line: This ingredient does not appear to have any beneficial properties for your skin.

• Tetrasodium EDTA
• Uses: Used as a preservative and chelating agent, according to wikipedia.
• About This Ingredient: No known toxicity to the skin.
• How It’s Made: Synthesized in a lab.
• The Bottom Line: This ingredient does not appear to have any beneficial properties for your skin.

• Tetrasodium Etidronate
• Uses: Used as a preservative and chelating agent (DCI lists this as a synonym for Tetrasodium EDTA, I’m not sure why Dove lists this twice).
• About This Ingredient: No known toxicity to the skin.
• How It’s Made: Synthesized in a lab.
• The Bottom Line: This ingredient does not appear to have any beneficial properties for your skin.

• Maltol
• Uses: Used as a flavoring agent, according to wikipedia.
• About This Ingredient: I wasn’t able to find any information on the use of Maltol in soap. It occurs naturally in some types of plants. It does have a fragrance.
• How It’s Made: I can’t say difinitively, but I would propose that it is probably harvested from plant material.
• The Bottom Line: This ingredient does not appear to have any beneficial properties for your skin. It might be used as a fragrance, but maybe not considering Dove claims this bar to be unscented.

• Titanium Dioxide
• Uses: Used as a whitening agent.
• About This Ingredient: Titanium Dioxide is thought to have no negative side effects when used externally. However, I have read that people can be sensitive to it.
• How It’s Made: Crude titanium dioxide is purified via titanium tetrachloride in the chloride process, according to wikipedia.
• The Bottom Line: This ingredient does not appear to have any beneficial properties for your skin. It may cause skin irritation.

http://www.alabu.com/education/dove-ingredients